Non-Trouble Code Procedures
Leak Testing1. Add water to the radiator to detect core leaks. Clean the core in order to make it easier to find the damaged area.
2. Remove dirt and insects from the fins with a common water hose without a nozzle. Excessive water pressure could damage the fins.
On-Vehicle Testing
- Tools Required
- J24460-01 Cooling System Tester
1. Pressure test the aluminum/plastic radiator using a common pump and gauge.
2. Make sure the cooling system is at a cool temperature, then remove the radiator cap.
3. Connect the gauge and apply normal system operating pressure. Do not exceed 138 kPa (20 psi).
4. Watch the gauge needle for an indication of a leak.
5. Examine the radiator and other cooling system parts for signs of escaping coolant.
6. Repair all hose and hose connections as required.
7. Check the radiator cap. Ensure the cap will maintain the correct pressure.
8. If the radiator is leaking during the pressure test, mark the leak area in order to find the leak once the radiator is removed.
Off-Vehicle Testing
Notice: Never use compressed air to pressure test a radiator that is not regulated to 138 kPa (20 psi). Pressures over 138 kPa (20 psi.) will damage the radiator.
Do not use the boil-out tanks or vats or other tanks that have been used for copper and brass radiators. The flux acid and caustic cleaners remaining in these tanks will attack the aluminum and cause radiator failure. A separate test tank containing clean water is strongly recommended for servicing an aluminum/Drastic radiator.
1. Install the test fittings or rubber test caps in the inlet and outlet necks and seal the oil cooler footings with metal plugs. This will protect the cooler and keep the fluid from running out.
2. Attach the pressure tester and gradually apply air pressure.
- Do not exceed 138 kPa (20 psi).
- Check pressure gauge to see if there is a pressure loss.
- To ensure that there are no small leaks, run water over the repair area and look for bubbles. (A mild detergent is very helpful.)
- If a large water tank is available, submerge the radiator and check for bubbles at the following locations:
- Inlet tank (1 )
- Core tubes (2)
- Outlet tank (3)
- Oil cooler connections (4)
- Drain plug (5)
Pressure Cap Testing
- Tools Required
- J24460-01 Cooling System Tester
Caution: As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the pressure cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously possibly with explosive force-spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap.
The vehicle is equipped with an aluminum radiator. Use the outlined instructions in the Aluminum Radiator Diagnosis section in order to remove the cap:
1. Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cool:
1.1. Slowly rotating the cap counterclockwise to detent. Do not press down while rotating pressure cap.
1.2. Wait until any residual pressure (indicated by a hissing sound) is relieved.
1.3. After all hissing stops, continue to rotate counterclockwise until the cap is removed.
2. Wet the radiator cap gasket with water.
3. Wash off any sediment from the sealing surface.
4. Install the cap to the J24460-01.
5. Use the plunger handle of the J24460-01 in order to increase the pressure as specified on the cap.
6. Note the rate of decrease in the pressure.
7. The specified reading of the pressure should remain within the corresponding pressure scale for more than 10 seconds.
8. Replace the radiator cap if it does not maintain the pressure for more than 10 seconds.